Rupert Roschnik

July 5th

Start:  Grand-St-Bernard tunnel north entrance; finish: Vélan Hut
Distance: 13,7 km
Time taken: 10 hours (plus 1h25 for the stops)
Vertical distance:  1890 m uphill, 1180 m downhill

Met up with Dave, my new guide for the next 2-3 weeks, and started up to Col d’Annibal: over 1000 m of steep grass, scree and moraines, which took us almost 4 hours.  Then the Hannibal arête itself was nearly as bad, with a lot of loose rock and scree.  Not to be recommended!  Tracks led in soft snow from the summit down the “voie normale” to the Vélan Hut.  We had intended to head for a bivouac hut on the Italian side of Col Valsorey but no tracks led there.  We were the only people in the hut that night.  The day before (Saturday) there had been 25 and all of them reached the summit.

Photo:
The Vélan Hut

July 4th

Distance:  17,8 km
Walking time:  9 hours 40 minutes (including 1 hour 30 minutes for the stops)
Vertical distance:  2020 m uphill, 1650 m downhill

I was accompanied today by a good friend, Yves Stettler, my son Roger and my grandson Neil. The first goal was the Grand Golliat, 3238 m. With 4 people, the northwest ridge starting from the Grand Col Ferret seemed too long.  So we decide to do the “voie normale”, starting from the Grand -Saint- Bernard road on the Italian side, at 2,090 m, via the Col de St- Rhémy.  At the top, there is too much snow on a rock barrier, so we opt for the Col des Angrionettes and reach a point just below the eastern summit.  Then we go down again and climb Mont Fourchon, from where we follow the whole border ridge to the Grand-St-Bernard Pass.  Nice welcome from members of our family.  At the Col: crowds of tourists, cars and noisy motorcycles, etc.

Photos:
1.  Below the eastern summit of Grand Golliat
2.  On the summit of Mont Fourchon

July 3rd

Start: Cesare Fiorio bivouac hut; finish: Alpine dairy and hostel La Peule
Distance: 12.9 km
Total time: 9 hours 30 minutes (including 50 minutes for the stops)
Vertical distance: 1230 m uphill, 1890 m downhill

Wake up at 2 a.m., leave the hut at 2.30 a.m.  An hour’s climb on bands of smooth rocks interspersed with snowfields took us onto the glacier under Mont Grépillon.  From here, an exhausting climb, often steep or very steep, in rotten and soft snow – it did not freeze during the night! – which required the huge task of making the trail by Graham.  Cloudy, we were not too exposed to the sun.  Finally, we reach the summit at 6.30 a.m.  Fine views  in all directions.  The descent was also difficult for me, especially the last slope below the summit, very steep and with a slight crust on the surface of the snow.  (For a comment on the triple point Switzerland-France-Italy, see under “Border stories,” no. 1.)

For me, this summit marks the end of the Swiss border with France and I am proud to have reached this point.  As for Mont Dolent, a big thank you to Graham Frost!

July 2nd

Start: Alpine dairy and hostel La Peule; finish: bivouac hut Cesare Fiorio (CAAI)
Distance: 6,9 km
Time taken: 3 hours 10 minutes, including stops
Vertical distance: 810 m uphill, 150 m downhill

Another beautiful sunny day.  Met up with Graham again, who drove up to La Peule in his (wife’s) 4-wheel drive Škoda.  After a snack, we went up to the frontier at Grand Col Ferret.  This section is part of the Tour du Mont Blanc and we met large numbers of variously attired walkers of different nationalities doing this circuit, also a number of mountain bikers.  Then on to the Petit Col Ferret and the Italian bivouac hut Cesare Fiorio at 2729 m.  Leisurely afternoon preparing for the climb up Mont Dolent the next day.  Early to bed.

July 1st

Start and finish:  Refuge d’Argentière
Distance: 7,6 km (1 km along the frontier)
Walking time: 4 hours (plus 30 minutes for the stops)
Vertical distance:  800 m uphill, 800 m downhill

Breakfast at 3 a.m. (again), off at 4 a.m., aiming at the Tour Noir, the next important summit.  By 6 we were at the foot of a snowy couloir that led to the summit ridge.  But it was too warm!  Graham decided it would be unwise to go up it, with real avalanche danger say 3 hours later when we came down it again.  So we said goodbye to the Tour Noir and went instead to the Col du Tour Noir, just 20 minutes away, then returned to the hut.

The next major summit is Mont Dolent, where Switzerland, France and Italy meet.  The approach from the north was also compromised by the warm weather.  The lower section involved some difficult rock climbing and would be exposed to stone fall, while the upper, steep snow slopes would be extremely soft and dangerous by the time we reached them.  So we decided to do the Dolent from the south (Italian) side, which will cost us a day.

So down from the hut to the cable car at Lognan, in just over 2 and a half hours:  another 6,5 km and 800 m down.  Once in the valley, we found heat-wave conditions!

June 30th

Start:  Cabane du Trient; finish (and night): Refuge d’Argentière (CAF).
Distance: 12,9 km (5 km along the frontier)
Walking time: 6 hours 50 minutes (plus 2 hours for the stops)
Vertical distance:  1210 m uphill, 1610 m downhill

Main summit: Aiguille d’Argentière, 3901 m

Breakfast at 3 a.m. and leave before 4 a.m. to get good snow conditions.  We have already given up on visiting every single summit, because this would be too time-consuming.  Instead, we visit only the more important summits but otherwise keep as close to the frontier as possible.  We crossed the Fenêtre de Saleina (very steep down the far side for 50 m), then traversed beneath Grande Fourche to the Col du Chardonnet.  The ascent here of about 120 m was very steep, a mixture of snow, ice and rubble, and had me quite out of breath at the end.  From here we had to go down the glacier for about 200 m before attacking the last 800 m up to the summit of the Aiguille d’Argentière, which we reached at 10 a.m.  Rapidly softening snow precluded any further attempt to traverse other peaks, so we descended the initially steep “voie normale” to the Argentière Hut, where we had lunch and a siesta.

A beautiful day, with not a cloud in the sky, and excellent views in all directions.  A day to make life worth living!

Photo:
1.  9 a.m.  Kenny and Graham, last rest before the summit
2.  40 minutes later
3.  On the summit ridge

June 29th

Start:  Col de Balme; finish: near Col du Tour, 3281 m.  Night: Cabane du Trient (CAS)
Distance: 10,9 km (6 km along the frontier)
Walking time: 6 hours (plus 2 hours for the stops)
Vertical distance:  1540 m uphill, 590 m downhill

Meeting with the next guide, Graham, who in turn invited an aspirant guide, Kenny, to join us for 2-3 days.  Rides in a cable car and a chairlift, then a short walk takes us to the Col de Balme.  It is already late (the lifts only start at 9 a.m.), which we will pay for dearly in the afternoon. Climbs without incident on the ridges or the snowfields (already soft) on the Swiss side.   A short rock climb to the top of the Aiguille du Tour, 3540 m.  The final crossing of 2-3 km of very soft snow on the Trient Plateau after 5 p.m., to reach the hut, is very tiresome.

Photo:
Col de Balme

June 28th

Start:  Emosson dam; finish: Col de Balme (2204 m)
Distance: 16,5 km (8 km along the frontier)
Walking time: 4 hours 50 minutes
Vertical distance:  1260 m uphill, 1020 m downhill

After spending easily 15 minutes to find the beginning of the path, because of the building work on the dam , I go down smoothly to Le Châtelard.  There, everything is fenced around the power plant and water basins, forcing me to do a lot of detours.  Once at the Col de Balme, I take the chairlift down.  Tomorrow, I can then go up some 1000 m in the chairlift with the new guide, Graham, and all our equipment.  A great saving of energy!

Stop press!  Sally broke her wrist this evening, will be operated Monday 29th, so out of action as regards car driving.

Rest day

June 26th

Start:  Bivouac hut Vallon de Tenneverge; finish: Emosson dam wall
Distance: 16 km (11,5 km along the frontier)
Walking time: 9 hours 45 minutes (plus 1 hour for the stops)
Vertical distance:  1650 m uphill, 1520 m downhill

Main summit: Le Cheval Blanc, 2831 m

It took us 2 hours to get back to the frontier at the Col de Tenneverge, but the night was more comfortable than sleeping out with no special equipment.  The next peak – Les Taureaux – had all its ledges so covered in snow that Victor did not want to attempt it.  To get around it, we had to descend almost to the level of Lake Emosson, then go up a road to a restaurant below the Vieux Emosson dam wall, which has just been raised by some 15 metres.  Vieux Emosson was completely dry and the whole place a huge building site.  New tunnels were being dug everywhere.  A new path, partly covered in soft snow, led us to the top of Le Cheval Blanc.  More stupendous views.  On getting down again, we learned that the road to and over the main Emosson dam wall was closed to pedestrians up to 6 p.m. because of the heavy building site traffic.  There was no alternative but to take a free shuttle bus that had been laid on for walkers.  We were met at the other end by my son Roger and grandson Neil who took us down to the valley.  Goodbye to Victor, an excellent guide and companion for 3 days.

Photos:
Unstable snow bridge over a raging stream

Rupert and Victor at the end of a long day