Daily Archives: 12 July 2015

July 12th

Total walking time:  4 hours 10 minutes.

Breakfast at 6.30 a.m.  Dave and I left the friendly Abruzzi hut just after 7, to reach Plan Maison in just under an hour. Here I left Dave and my rucksack and took the cable car down to Cervinia (Breuil), where I found the Guides’ Office, paid for Giorgio and thanked the lady for her efforts to get me an excellent guide.  Then back up to Plan Maison to continue to Testa Grigia with Dave and my rucksack.  From here we had to trudge up the ski pistes to Klein Matterhorn in hot sun and on soft snow, 1 hour 10 minutes.

At midday Euan arrived to take the place of Dave who left for Zermatt and beyond to have his foot examined properly.  With Euan we slowly went up the Breithorn, following a clear trail made by dozens of other climbers, mainly Italians.  It is Sunday and there must have been at least 200 people on the summit that day!  2 hours there and back, 410 m up.

We spent the night at the “refuge” at Klein Matterhorn: no warden, costly but well organised, with all facilities.

Photo:

On the summit of Breithorn

July 11th

Distance: 13,1 km
Time: 14 hours.
Vertical distance: 1850 m up and down. The Matterhorn is a big mountain!

We had arranged to meet at 3.30 a.m. Giorgio, the Italian guide arrived on a motorbike before 3 a.m., I heard him and got up for a quick cup of coffee with him.  Then off in the dark.  He spoke good French and turned out to be excellent.  About 45 years old, he knew every inch of the way, every short cut, every piton.  We made good progress and reached the summit at 10.15, having rested half an hour at the Carrel hut for a cup or two of tea.  There are many fixed ropes along the way where you must pull yourself up with your arms, which I found quite tiring. Good weather but a strong cold wind on the ridges. And a continuous ballet of sightseeing helicopters buzzing around the mountain, full of rich tourists.

Going down took about the same time as the guide was more cautious, or more tired?  At the fixed ropes, he lowered me down on a rope like a sack of potatoes – except that I had to stay fairly horizontal and put my feet in the right places.  This way saved time and was easier for me.  The whole climb was a unique and wonderful experience!

Meanwhile Dave had to hang around all day at the hut.  I was “rewarded” by being given a proper bed for the night.

Photos:

1. On the summit
2. and 3.  The guide Giorgio Cazzanelli

July 10th

Dave and I took the cable cars up to Klein Matterhorn (now called “Glacier Paradise”!), walked down to Testa Grigia in about 40 minutes and took more cable cars down to Plan Maison.  From here walked up to Rifugio Abruzzi in 75 minutes.  Then Dave found he had a problem in one foot, possibly stretched tendons, and could not continue.  So after much phoning I got a local Italian guide for tomorrow.  Abruzzi Hut very nice but we had to sleep on the floor because no beds left.

Photo:

With Dave Green in Zermatt