Daily Archives: 11 June 2015


The Doubs 2

June 11th – seventh day –

Start: Biaufond; finish: Col des Roches
Distance: 33,4 km, of which 6 by kayak
Time: 6 hours 10 minutes
Vertical distance:  810 m uphill, 500 m downhill

What a contrast to yesterday!  It was fairly sunny but the whole morning’s walk was on beautiful paths in the shade of trees, next to the river, with many bucolic spots, later next to towering limestone cliffs, quite wild.  Neil had brilliantly doctored my blisters from the day before, I had slept well – overslept in fact – and for the first time since June 5th did I feel 100% fit.

After about 4 hours I reached the famous Saut du Doubs waterfall and the restaurant at the end of the Lac des Brenets.  The noise level was deafening as I emerged into “civilisation”.  I had earlier overtaken a group of 35 chattering children aged 8 – 11 or so but this was nothing compared to yet more school outings (it’s the end of the school year here) and boatloads of retirees crowding out all available restaurant tables.

Sally and Neil had found their way through France to bring me the kayak and I once again had complete peace paddling the 6 km to the other end of the lake.  From there Neil and I walked up the Rançonnière valley.  The path decided to climb high over a cliff before coming down again, which I thought tedious, so we went up the stream in a gorge for some 500 m.  This turned out quite an adventure:  very little water, but polluted and smelly, with very slippery stones, boulders, tree trunks and branches.  Finally we reached the interesting border at Col des Roches, with long queues of French commuter cars going back home.

Overnight: La Maison Monsieur, Biaufond

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The Doubs 1

June 10th – sixth day

Start: Brémoncourt (F), on the Doubs; finish: Biaufond
Total distance: 39,0 km , of which 12 by bicycle
Walking and cycling time: 8 hours 30 minutes
Vertical distance: 1020 m uphill, 930 downhill

In the morning I felt very weak and I started the climb of 450 m in the forest very slowly.  Gradually, I felt better, I passed the remote village of Epiquerez and after four hours I was able to cross the Doubs again on the Clairbief footbridge and meet up with Sally and Neil at the Moulin Jeannotat, whose restaurant unfortunately closed 3 years ago.  A few kilometres by bicycle took me to Goumois, well known to kayakers, for a well appreciated soup, and then on to Le Theusseret.  From there, Neil and I hiked for hours on tedious stony forest roads that climbed much too high above the Doubs.

Overnight: La Maison Monsieur, Biaufond

Photos:

1. The Clairbief footbridge
2. The bridge at Goumois.  The border is at the beginning of the bridge, on the Swiss side – see “Frontier stories”, no. 2

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