Swiss perimeter

June 25th

Start:  Refuge de la Vogealle; finish: refuge/bivouac Vallon de Tenneverge
Distance: 17,0 km (10 km along the frontier)
Time taken:  11 hours (plus 2 hours 30 minutes for the stops)
Vertical distance: 1590 m uphill, 1660 m downhill

Main summit:  Mont Ruan, 3044 m

This was the day we put on crampons and took them off again at least a dozen times!

Good breakfast in the hut at 3 a.m., off at 4 a.m.  A beautiful morning, but with clouds and cold wind on the ridges later in the day.  It was over 1100 m up to the top of Mont Ruan, the route-finding in the upper part was tricky and we had to retrace our steps once or twice, but we were rewarded by a beautiful 360° view.  Later, snow fields and low visibility caused us to avoid some minor summits on the French side, also Pic de Tenneverge, whose summit lies entirely in France.  The alternation of steep snow fields and scree meant we were continually putting on and removing our crampons.  We had intended to sleep out near the Col de Tenneverge but the cold wind would have made this very uncomfortable.  Victor, who has climbed Mount Everest 6 times, suggested descending to a small bivouac hut some 600 m down on the French side, where there might be some blankets.  Indeed, this was the case – we found some thin mattresses, a sleeping bag and 3 blankets!

Photos:
1. Rupert on top of Mont Ruan, with Mont Blanc and Emosson (lakes and dam wall) behind
2.  Refuge/bivouac Vallon de Tenneverge
3.  Inside

June 24th

Start: Châlets Le Lapisa; finish: Refuge de la Vogealle (CAF)
Distance: 19 km (5 km along the frontier)
Time taken: 10 hours 30 minutes (plus 2 hours for the stops)
Vertical distance: 2200 m uphill, 2090 m downhill

Main summits:
Pointe de la Golette, 2634 m
Dent de Barme, 2759 m

Victor and I left the chalet at 5.00 a.m., our rucksacks heavy on the shoulders.  We planned at least one bivouac (without a sleeping bag!) and probably carried too much food.  A week earlier Victor had made a reconnaissance around the Dent de Barme, with a colleague.  They found a lot of snow and quite loose and friable rock;  their conclusion: the complete traverse of the Dents Blanches would take too much time and would probably be dangerous, if not impossible in these conditions. So we decided to limit our ambitions to the ascent of the two main summits, one at each end of the chain.  Which we did, at the cost of a descent of some 500 m in between.  On the other hand, the second summit was done without rucksacks. A beautiful day, magnificent views.  At the end, Victor persuaded me to go down to the refuge Vogealle another 250 meters below.  It was worth it:  comfortable dormitory and good hearty meal!

June 23rd

Start: Col de Recon; finish: Alpage Le Lapisa
Distance: 29,2 km
Walking time: 7 hours 45 minutes (and 1 hour for the stops)
Vertical distance: 1450 m uphill; 1390 m downhill

A dull, rainy day.  It had rained during the night, so all the grass and bushes were very wet.  The paths were very muddy and slippery, needing utmost care.  Just after passing the French ski lifts of Super Châtel (where heavy machinery was being used to “improve” the pistes and lifts), it started raining again heavily just as I had to climb a steep slope of undergrowth and moss-covered stones, often having to pull myself up on tree roots and branches.  Soon I was completely soaked and my boots full of water.  Mercifully it soon stopped raining and I was able to empty the water out of my boots and wring out my socks.  The rest of the day passed uneventfully and I reached the day’s destination:  Le Lapisa, a mountain dairy farm below the Col du Cou that offers accommodation and meals.  Sally and Neil arrived by car bringing with them Victor, who was to be my guide for the next 3 days, before returning down into the valley.

June 22nd

Start: St-Gingolph; finish: Col de Recon
Distance: 23,8 km
Walking time: 8 hours 50 minutes (and 40 minutes for the stops)
Vertical distance: 2610 m uphill, 1250 m downhill

It was a big climb from Lake Geneva to the summit of Les Cornettes de Bise (2432 m), a height difference of 2050 m over some 15 km.  I took it slowly and finished in 6 1/2 hours (including rests).  The weather was reasonable, but very windy.  The rucksack was heavier than usual – Sally had provided a huge picnic and I carried more water than I needed.  Good for training!

Less text, more photos today!

1. “Improving” a nice forest path In France, just above St-Gingolph
2. Dent de Vélan.  The frontier runs right through the middle of these pinnacles
3. Les Cornettes de Bise.  Summit cross and boundary stone
4. Young ibex

June 21st – rest day!

June 20th

Distance: 49,0 km by kayak
Time taken: 10 hours 10 minutes, of which 7 hours 55 in the kayak and 2 hours 15 minutes resting
Vertical distance:  0!

I was able to leave the beach at Hermance with Natan just before 8 a.m.  I immediately had a problem with my right shoulder, and could not pull too hard, probably the result of a bruise after a fall in the forest about 15 days ago (I stumbled). So we decided not to follow the border marked on the  maps but to take a more direct line on the French side, which gave us a gain of about  7-8 km. The whole day was painful for me; fortunately Natan (and Neil later) are lads with large biceps.  In fact they did easily 75% of the work and without them I would never have succeeded.

The weather was kind to us – ideal conditions in the morning, no more north wind and overcast, fairly sunny in the afternoon.  After 4 hours of paddling we came across Sally, Sonia and Neil by chance at a canteen beyond Thonon, on the old delta of the Dranse de Thonon.  Welcome pause and rest.  Then Neil took the place of Natan for the rest of the journey, my shoulder ever more painful.  Another coffee stop in Meillerie and we did the last 5 km in record time.

For dinner, perch fillets served in a creperie (!) in St-Gingolph, on the French side. They came from Poland!

Photo and video:
Rupert and Neil arriving at St-Gingolph

IMG_0667

June 19th

Itinerary:  Perly customs post to Hermance
Total distance: 48,9 km by bicycle, of which about 1 km  pushing the bicycle on an awkward forest path
Time taken: 4 hours 20 minutes (plus 20 minutes for a beer)
Vertical distance: 280 m uphill, 360 m downhill

We overslept!  When I looked at my watch it was already 9.10 a.m.  We obviously needed the sleep.  This was an important day for the logistics.  Grandson Natan, Neil’s elder brother, arrived last night and was collected from Geneva airport.  This morning I was taken to the Perly – St-Julien frontier post and left with the bicycle and a sandwich.  Then Sally and Natan drove home to leave the one-seater kayak and pick up the two-seater.  They then picked up Sonia, our daughter (and Natan’s mother) from Geneva station and drove to a resort near Hermance.  So all ready for tomorrow’s effort on Lake Geneva.  (Neil had the day off in Geneva city centre.)

I covered most of the complex frontier south of Geneva on a range of highways, roads, tracks and paths, almost always next to the frontier or very close to it.  The kayak crossing of the Arve river was not possible for logistical reasons.  I also gave up on wading up the Foron stream between Geneva and Annemasse – it hardly looked possible and would have taken too much time.  A very pleasant day, but I had to fight against a strong north wind (“la bise”) once out of the urban areas.

Night: Excellior Suites Grand Genève, Veigy-Foncenex (F)

June 18th

Distance 48,6 km, of which 8,4 on foot, 3,1 by kayak and 37,1 by mountain bike
Total time moving: 7,5 hours
Vertical distance: 180 m uphill, 170 m downhill

We left late to avoid the worst Geneva commuter traffic.  I cycled around some CERN buildings and beyond.  Then Neil and I walked down the forests of the Allondon valley and up above Malvas where groups of immigrants were working in the vineyards.  We met Sally and had a snack.  Neil persuaded me that I would gain time by cycling since many footpaths are feasible in this way, (and we also saw in the Jura and along the Doubs that many paths are done by mountain bike, so I cycled on and down to the Rhone, with some pushing and carrying, also avoiding streams and river beds.  I embarked in the kayak near La Plaine but could not land anywhere near the power station and dam further down the river (building site, fenced off), so had to paddle back upstream some 500 m to a footpath close to the river below Epeisses.  Neil carried the boat back to the car and I decided not even to try to kayak the last few km below the power station, but continued by mountain bike,  covered the westernmost border of Switzerland, and eventually reached the border post at Perly. I must admit I enjoyed cycling and the activity helped my sore feet!

Night:  Hôtel Ibis Budget, Annemasse

June 17th

Start: La Rippe; finish: Meyrin customs post
Total distance: 33,4 km, of which 7 km by kayak
Walking time: 5 and a half hours, plus one and a half by kayak
Vertical distance: 90 m uphill, 200 m downhill

After leaving  late from our house in Grandvaux (to avoid morning traffic), Neil and I started at La Rippe. After Crassier we attempt to cross the marsh of Les Bidonnes: we emerge with wet shoes and with legs blackened with mud, but the alternative was 2 km walk on a main road.

Sally, ever faithful, is waiting at the Chavannes-de-Bogis customs post, where I start out in the kayak.  Calm up to Sauverny, the Versoix now begins to gain pace. The descent is made more difficult by the many tree trunks across the river. Finally, after 7 km, I am surprised by a small rapid and capsize.  The water is cold!  I get to the edge, retrieve everything, empty the water from the boat and try to get in touch with Sally and Neil – I had my GPS and my mobile phone  in a waterproof bag. Fairly soon, Neil comes running and canoes the last 2 km, which I do on foot.  All’s well that ends well.

There remain  some 14 km on foot with Neil, through fields and the commercial areas of Ferney-Voltaire, along the airport fence (see photo), to arrive at Meyrin, where Sally is waiting. An adventurous day.

Savoie Hôtel, St-Julien

June 16th

Start:  on the Risoux, about 1220 m; finish:  La Rippe (VD)

Total distance: 37,5 km
Walking time:  9 hours 10 minutes
Vertical distance: 950 m uphill, 1600 downhill

Going straight to the French side of the border, I passed a team of 4 foresters trimming logs to be pulled out of the forest.  Infernal noise of chain saws.   A carpet of debris was left behind and the track  was ruined by a large vehicle like a tractor.

I climbed to the top of the French “enclave” above Bois d’Amont.  An old woman, driving a 4-wheel drive as if it were a racing car, explained that there are still 2 dairies and some 200 cows up there.  Tedious walking in wet grass (that I finally abandoned for paths and roads) up to La Cure.  From there, a section through the valley of Dappes, a climb up the flanks of La Dôle, a first emotional view of Lake Geneva and a very painful descent of about 850 m to La Rippe.